Albert Yee, owner ofthe Chinese carryout restaurant Pacific Orient, recently revived the Polynesianformat with a new place called Shuckers Crab House.
The décor fits thebill for both maritime and tiki, with fishnets, a large, mounted shark, tikitorches, palm trees and, in the center of the dining room, a fiberglass replicaof a moai (a stone Polynesian bust). Fish tanks fill the space as well, but notjust for show. They hold live menu items like lobsters, oysters, Dungenesscrabs and tilapiathe freshest seafood possible.
The menu includesmultiple influences. The Hawaiian theme naturally lends itself to Asian dishes.Hawaii is also known for its love of Spamthe islanders are one of the world’slargest consumers of this canned pork productand not only does Spam appear inan appetizer, Polynesian nachos, but also as a meat option for fried rice, eggfoo young and Singapore noodles. Though the restaurant has only been open for afew weeks, the menu has already been revised. Expect more changes next monthwhen a sushi bar is installed.
It’s a shame thatthe menu did away with its appetizer of spicy pickled jellyfish ($9), since sofew Asian restaurants dare to serve it. The jellyfish, which was all about thecrunchy texture, got its flavor from sesame oil and seeds, and its spicinessfrom a few slices of jalapeno pepper. It has been replaced by Manilaclams ($8) and sautéed mussels ($8). The mussels, from Chile, areblack in color. They are more meaty than usual and are cooked with a veryChinese preparation of garlic, ginger and a hint of hot red chile pepper. Thisis a fine way to prepare mussels.
Also consider someHawaiian seafood soup ($3-$4), which offers a white broth with a swirl of egg.The seafood includes scallops, crab and shrimp, and the flavors are delicate.The order of gyoza ($5) seems more like Chinese pot stickers. The attractiveserving of six fried dumplings sits on a bamboo leaf in a bamboo tray. Anorchid blossom and a cup of sweetened and thickened soy sauce accompany thedish. The dough wrappers are light in texture, not leaden.
Some of the meatitems are smoked, which replicates the effect of Polynesian cooking pits. Onesuch meat is unagi ($15), or eel, and another is tiki hut barbecue ribs($12-$19). These pork ribs are large, so the smaller serving size should satisfymost diners. The ribs are smoky in flavor and coated in a suitable dark sweetsaucefine eating. The island volcanic beef ($12) offers a dramaticpresentation. Pieces of flank steak with green pepper and onion arrive in ametal plate, and then the server ignites it with cooking liquor. Ultimately, itis just Chinese pepper beef. Malaysiacurry chicken ($12) is served the same way, minus the flambé. Pieces of chickenbreast come with the same vegetables and a mild yellow curry sauce. It is thesame as chicken curries found in Chinese restaurants.
Entrees include achoice of two side items. Choose form Korean kimchee, fried rice, sweet potatofries and Polynesian slaw.
The bright orangechairs and dark green tablecloths may not provide an elegant setting, butShuckers is a fun, casual place. It is not a restaurant for a hurried meal, butyour patience will be rewarded with fresh kunomoto oysters, Dungeness crabs andthose garlicky mussels. This is a rapidly evolving menu, subject to change. Thetiki restaurants of the 1960s have returned.
Shuckers Crab House
7835 W. Burleigh St.
(414) 871-2722
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Credit Cards: AllMajor
Smoke-Free
Handicap Access: Yes
