Over the past several years Milwaukee has been blessed to see an ever-increasing number of “casual fine dining” establishments, places where the food is elevated and the service is top notch, yet the environment is relaxed. Smyth, located in the Iron Horse Hotel, holds a solid place in this class of casual/fine restaurants. A softly lit, cozy space with a beautiful blend of brick, wood, metal and leather, the textured décor at Smyth gives diners an immediate conversation topic. In these warmer months, diners may prefer to enjoy the gorgeous patio space with a view of the Harley Museum.
Recent changes in the kitchen earlier this year put new Executive Chef Bradford Shovlin at the helm. His new menu has been available for a few months and highlights foods that celebrate Milwaukee with some well-executed twists on familiar flavors.
For starters, go for the perfectly battered Clock Shadow Creamery cheese curds ($13). Lightly fried and served with a delicious house-made ranch sauce, you’ve likely never had fried cheese as incredible as this. If you prefer your cheese non-fried, the Wisconsin cheese board ($14) offers a range of carefully selected cheeses including one each of cow, goat and sheep cheeses. For meat lovers, the chef’s charcuterie board ($15) is traditional and lovely for those who take pleasure in perfectly thin, powerfully flavored meats.
The lunchtime crowd at Smyth will enjoy an excellent, if brief, selection of salads and sandwiches. The black kale Caesar-style salad ($9) makes a filling lunch, especially if you add chicken ($6) or salmon ($8). Those looking for a towering burger should order the branded burger ($14)—two all-beef patties, colby cheese, lettuce, tomato and tangy “500” sauce. Or try the lake perch po’boy ($14)—cornmeal-crusted perch, topped with lettuce, tomato, bacon and enhanced by a super flavorful remoulade. All sandwiches come with a pickle and crazy good hand-cut fries.
Like the lunch menu, Smyth keeps the dinner menu abbreviated, which may be why everything on it is made with such care. Go for the Duroc pork chop ($35), so tender and flavorful you may forget about steak forever. Or try the Great Lakes walleye ($29) prepared with a crispy wild rice “skin,” cured turnips and French green beans. For those who are passing on meat, order the gnocchi ($24), served with herbs, spring vegetables, creamy ricotta and a light verjus sauce.
Perhaps one of the most popular meals at Smyth is the Sunday brunch ($33, served 8 a.m.-2 p.m.). With an all-you-can-eat buffet, a complimentary glass of champagne or a mimosa and small-plate offerings all themed off dishes found in Route 66 truck stop diners, everyone is guaranteed to leave well fed and happy.
500 W. Florida St.
414-831-4615
$$$-$$$$
Handicap accessible: Yes
