The former Pieces of Eight restaurant, positioned along the shoreline of Lake Michigan, could not have had a better location. But years of mediocre food took a toll, and not even a name change could help. Recently, local philanthropist Michael Cudahy and the Bartolotta restaurant group teamed up to open a restaurant at the site. The new place is named the Harbor House, and its specialty is seafood.
The building has been thoroughly renovated. The exterior, with its pale gray siding and white trim, would fit right in at Mackinac Island. When you first enter, you will see a bar topped with white marble. In the dining area, the white of the walls and linens contrasts with the dark hardwood floors. A long bank of windows offers prime views of the Milwaukee Art Museum’s Calatrava addition. The best spot for a solo diner is at the raw bar, where the daily clam and oyster selections are on view.
The Harbor House is already very popular and is likely to be packed even on Sunday nights. Reservations are a very good idea, though there are tables near the bar that are not reserved (ditto for the eight seats at the raw bar).
Though it’s not touted on the menu, the seafood tends to be of a sustainable variety. This means crab, shrimp and lobster among the shellfish, and fin fish like trout, halibut and yellowfin tuna. Tilapia and catfish are nowhere to be found on this menu. There also is no Chilean sea bass, but you will find Scottish salmon.
The raw bar offers some of the best options, including oysters, clams and shrimp sold by the piece. The oyster varieties ($2.25 each) change daily. Small Kumamotos are frequently available, and you may also encounter Marin Bays from California, Foggy Coves from Prince Edward Island and Effinghams from British Columbia. This is an A-list of the oyster kingdom. The clams will be top necks ($1.25 each) and the larger cherrystones ($1.50). The clams are meatier than the oysters. All are sparkling fresh and chilled to the perfect temperature. The oysters are so good and briny that they do not need any cocktail sauce.
The seafood preparations tend to be simple and straightforward, in the manner of New England. In a nod to the Great Lakes setting, there is Lake Superior whitefish ($22.95), a large fillet with a hint of white wine and anchovy-herb crumbs. It is served with zucchini and tomatoes. Overall, the menu does not focus on the Great Lakes. Besides the whitefish, the only other option is a lake perch sandwich.
Meat entrees are available, with a veal chop, roast chicken and steaks. If you want to splurge on a surf ’n’ turf combination, order the filet mignon with scallops ($44.95). The three perfectly grilled sea scallops have a fine flavor. The filet stands out as wellthe kind you would expect at an upscale steakhouse. The plate arrives with a Yukon gold potato puree.
Though the oysters rule the roost, the Maryland crab cakes appetizer ($11.95) is also very good. The two very meaty cakes are served with a nice mustard sauce. The Bartolotta’s Caesar salad ($8.95) is one of the very best to be found locally. The romaine lettuce comes in small pieces with a proper dressing, croutons and a pair of salty anchovy filets. The creamy New England clam chowder ($4.95-$6.95) is loaded with diced potato and celery, though the clam seems to be in short supply.
Those on a budget will find a burger with fries for $9.95 and a steak sandwich for $14.95.
You expect a very good wine list at a Bartolotta restaurant, and Harbor House is no exception. Wine prices reach into the four-figure range, but bottles start out at a modest $24 and many cost less than $50. Beer is a fine companion for oysters as well. The more modest beer list offers Stella Artois and Anchor Steam ale on tap.
The restaurant is very busy, but with an army of knowledgeable servers and bartenders, the Harbor House staff is up to the task. The only drawback is the noise level. With the high volume and tables a bit too close to each other, this is not a place for a quiet meal. In all other respects, though, the Harbor House is an enjoyable, casual experience. This is the type of restaurant that deserves its choice location.
Harbor House
550 N. Harbor Drive
(414) 395-4900
$$$-$$$$
Credit Cards: All Major
Handicap Accessible
