Milwaukee was once a culinary backwater where Cantonese was considered adventurous dining. As food writer Lori Fredrich points out in her new book, Milwaukee Food: A History of Cream City Cuisine, our city is now in the vanguard with urban farming, farm-to-table restaurants and locally sourced food. Fredrich surveys landmarks like John Ernst Café and Three Brothers, but focuses much of her attention on the recent breed of chefs behind restaurants such as Braise, La Merenda and the Bartolotta empire, along with such thriving local food producers as Clock Shadow Creamery and Purple Door Ice Cream. Quibbles aside—Why mention Coquette but not Chez Jacques?—Fredrich provides a succinct, nearly comprehensive survey of where Milwaukee once ate and where we dine today.
