Many Milwaukeeans were likely familiar with Chef Dan Jacobs before his success on the recent season of “Top Chef,” the popular cooking show competition that filmed its 21st season in Wisconsin.
Jacobs and his friend/business partner, Dan Van Rite, own and operate DanDan, a Chinese restaurant in the Third Ward, and EsterEv, a fine dining restaurant first launched inside DanDan and that now occupies a brick-and-mortar space in Bay View. Jacobs, a Chicago native, had also worked at esteemed Milwaukee restaurants Roots, Wolf Peach and Odd Duck.
In addition, Jacobs met president-elect Joe Biden in 2020 to talk about COVID-19 economic impact on independent restaurateurs. Jacobs and Van Rite were James Beard Award finalists in the 2024 Best Chef Midwest category.
We caught up with Jacobs as he and his family were en route to the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, Colo., to talk about his “Top Chef” journey and what lies ahead.
Competitive Rigors
Jacobs had had a long-time natural desire to compete on “Top Chef”; he had applied several times before being cast for Season 21. “I always felt like I would do really well on ‘Top Chef’ and needed the opportunity to do that,” he says.
Once Jacobs learned he was cast for “Top Chef: Wisconsin”, he prepared so he could handle the rigors of the competition. In 2016, Jacobs was diagnosed with Kennedy’s disease, a rare slow-progressing neuromuscular disorder. He worked with a personal trainer to do stretching exercises and yoga, and he learned meditation techniques.
“I knew what this would entail,” he relates. “I knew it would take time, and I knew I would be cut off from my support system here at home. I needed to make sure I was going to be mentally and physically strong enough to do this.”
As the hometown hero of “Top Chef: Wisconsin,” Jacobs encountered several local chefs and culinary professionals throughout filming. As local viewers cheered him on through each episode, Jacobs says balancing those celebrity vibes was the easy part as he stayed focused on the competition and his craft. “Even when I saw people that I knew, it would be momentarily,” he notes. “But it always felt good, and I wanted to showcase the city of Milwaukee and the state of Wisconsin in the best way that I could.”
Holding His Own
Jacobs held his own against very talented chefs. “One of the biggest things I learned was that I can compete with any of them. I think that translates to the city of Milwaukee, as well—we’re just as good as anybody else. I always knew that could do this, and I’m excited that I had the opportunity to put my talents to the test.”
As each episode aired, creative challenges unfolded that showcased the state’s food traditions: cheese, beer, cranberries, cherries, supper clubs and Door County fish boils. One challenge particularly resonated with Jacobs, the Elimination Challenge from Episode 9, “The Good Land”, which focused on Indigenous cuisine.
“It was one of those challenges that showcased cuisine that is underrepresented across the country, and some of the people doing it the best are right here in the Midwest,” he says, referencing Indigenous chefs including Elena Terry, Bryce Stevenson and Sean Sherman, who judged the Indigenous challenge.
The “cheftestants” prepared dishes with Indigenous ingredients native to America and could not use go-to staples like dairy, cane sugar, pork, chicken or beef. Jacobs says being confined to certain ingredients stretched his creativity to the next level.
Elevating Milwaukee
Jacobs affirms that “Top Chef: Wisconsin” has elevated Milwaukee’s standing in the culinary world. “We’re already seeing the effect. People are traveling here to eat at the restaurants. I’ve always said that we’re on par with any other city in the United States, as far as food goes.”
Jacobs and Van Rite have been on the James Beard Award nomination long list five times together; Van Rite three times by himself. “Getting to that short list and going to Chicago to be part of the awards ceremony was one of those ‘pinch me’ moments,” he enthuses. While Jacobs has earned much attention in recent months, he’s taking things one day at a time. He plans to enjoy the summer with his family and focus on upcoming events at DanDan and Ester Ev. Their Guest Chef Series runs at both restaurants through November and features past contestants from “Top Chef,” along with chefs from throughout the country. DanDan also hosts a Taste of China dinner series.
“I always did enjoy doing television,” concludes Jacobs, who also appeared on the show “Beat Bobby Flay”. “I was really proud of the way I was able to compete and show the state of Wisconsin and city of Milwaukee, to show the spirits of local places. Also, to show anybody that has a disability that you can still compete and still try to do what it is that you want to do.”
For more information, visit dandanmke.com or esterev.com.