A complete guide to Milwaukee’s fish frys would be as long as a phonebook. And given the enormous number and variety of the locally popular entrée, how could we presume to pick and chose which are best? So, we left it up to our readers. The four restaurants below were the top vote getters in our 2020 Best of Milwaukee contest for fish fry. Enjoy, but remember: There are hundreds of others to choose from.
Kegel’s Inn
5901 W. National Ave.
414-257-9999
Kegel’s Inn is a remnant of old Milwaukee in West Allis—a German restaurant with authentic Old World charm, many Bavarian dishes and a fish fry with many options (baked included). Kegel’s “Classic Fish Fry” includes five pieces of lightly battered, golden-brown cod with two slices of hearty rye bread, homemade coleslaw and a choice of soup. French fries and mashed potatoes are the standard sides, but Kegel’s also offers some unusual alternatives: potato pancakes, red cabbage or spaetzle. It’s available for carryout on Fridays. Adapting to COVID conditions, Kegel’s has installed a yurt on its outdoor patio, the Beer Garden, where up to 12 people can eat or drink in an insulated, enclosed space. (David Luhrssen).
The Packing House
900 E. Layton Ave.
414-483-5054
There is something to be said about a fish fry’s popularity. On a Friday evening in early December, approximately 75 cars strung east on Layton Avenue, filled with hungry folks in line for the Packing House’s drive-through fish fry. The line moved steadily, and the 35 minute wait to get to the cash-only window was worth it. Three large pieces of mild, flaky cod were prepared lightly breaded and served with creamy coleslaw, slices of marble rye bread and a side of tartar sauce. The fries were extra crispy, and we also sampled a cup of the clam chowder; the perfect to warm up a winter evening. The Packing House’s dining room is open, and the full menu is also available for carryout. If you choose this option, you will be given a pickup time and your order will be delivered to you in the nearby Nite Owl parking lot. (Blaine Schultz)
Papa Luigi’s Pizza
3475 E. Layton Ave.
414-483-6111
An Italian-America red sauce and pizza joint might not be the first place you think of for fish fry, but why not? It’s one of the rare places that lists pasta with marinara sauce as a “potato,” making for an unusual but intriguing pairing with crispy, beer-battered cod and rye bread. Opt for crunchy breaded shrimp or perch and you're most of the way towards makeshift seafood parmesan. For the purists, there are four potato choices, including thick-cut, skin-on broasted potatoes. An Ital-Fashioned, a unique take on an Old-Fashioned with grappa and aromatic amaro, is a final Italian spin on a classic Wisconsin meal. Dine in, take out or have it delivered. (Lacey Muszynski)
The Saucy Swine
2245 E. Saint Francis Ave., Saint Francis
414-509-5390
Located inside the distinctively painted tavern called Redbar, this near-hidden restaurant’s nondescript location only adds to its mystique. The festive bar area gives way to a quiet backroom dining area. A barbecue-centric place, The Saucy Swine offers a Friday fish fry sub-menu, and we dove in. The potato chip-encrusted cod dinner comes with three large pieces of mild, flavorful fish, a cup of coleslaw and a generous heaping of potato skins. We started off with the Korean Brussels appetizer (crispy, fried brussels sprouts, chopped bacon, sesame seeds, Korean Kick barbecue sauce and curry aioli), and to be honest, that pretty much sealed the deal. It was fantastic. You will not be disappointed. (Blaine Schultz)