Champagne is the region in France wherethis celebration-and-headache-inducing wine originated. "Champagne," in common parlance, hascome to mean just about any sparkling wine. The only wines that are truly"champagnes" are from that particular French region. If you rememberthe old "This champagne's not Korbel!" commercialssince Korbel is madein California,the correct phraseology would be "This Korbel's not Champagne!" Mostnon-French producers now simply label their productions as "sparklingwine."
However, a useful related term to know is "Méthode champenoise." If a sparklingwine bears this designation, the bottle has been carbonated in the traditionalstyle of the Champagne region. This processwas discovered by a French monk whose name was...wait for it…Dom Pérignon.Here's how it works:
After a wine has barrel-aged for what a winemaker deems tobe a proper length of time, the wine is "dosed" with a little extrasugar and yeast and capped. The additional yeast and sugar causes fermentationbutsince the CO2 cannot escape, the bubbles are forced back into the wine,carbonating it. As the yeast finishes its work and dies, the residue falls tothe bottom of the bottle. However, since most wine drinkers prefer a clearproduct, we proceed to step called "riddling" after the carbonationis complete and the wine has rested for an appropriate length of time (usuallyat least a year).
During riddling, the bottles are racked with the neckpointing downward at about 45º. The yeast settles into the neck of the bottle.The bottles are turned a quarter turn every day and the downward angle isincreased. After a month or two, it's time for the removal of the yeast or"dégorgement." At this stage, the neck of the bottle is plunged intoa sub-freezing liquid, and the settled yeast freezes into a plug. When the plugis fully formed, the cap is removed and the carbonation forces the plug fromthe bottle. The bottle is then quickly corked and "caged" and isready for your party. There are, of course, less expensive methods of bottling,but méthode champenoise tends to createthe best quality of carbonation and flavor.
Traditionally, sparklingwines are either made from chardonnay ("blanc de blanc") or pinotnoir ("blanc de noir") but they can be made from almost any varietalof grape.
There are three basicflavor profiles in sparkling wine. They are, from driest to sweetest: Brut, Extra Dry, and Demi-Sec. Yes, you're reading thatcorrectlyExtra Dry is not asdry as Brut. There is also a fourth category, Doux, which is very sweetbut I haven't seen much of that.
I would also beremiss if I didn't include a quick note on opening these bloomin' bottles.While it's a great deal of fun to take the cage off, put both thumbs under thecork's ridge, and launch the cork off three walls or partygoer's noggins anddrench yourself and everyone around you like you just won the World Seriesyou're doing three problematic things. First,you're probably gonna put an eye out. Second, you're wasting the carbonation.Third, if you get a nice fountain of foam, you're WASTING WINE. Do. Not.Do. This.
Instead: get atowel, remove the cage from the cork, put the towel over the cork and graspfirmly. Twist the bottle gently and slowly back and forth. The cork will startto come loose. Ideally, you'll release the carbonation with a small pop or hissinstead of that loud POP. If you open the bottle like thisnot only are you protecting your guests, butthe bottle retains its carbonation for hours. If you don't finish the bottlethat night, put a bottle stopper in and you'll have perfect mimosa makings forthe morning after. (Sparkling wine's carbonation forces alcohol into yourbloodstream more quickly, causing the "quick drunk" of champagne, aswell as the intensified potential hangover.)
Here are a couple of offerings as you do your partyplanning:
Gruet “MethodeChampenoise” Brut Sparkling Wine – Gruet is a winery in New Mexico which produces very solid,inexpensive sparkling wine. This wine is also the traditional blend of grapes:Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. As with most Brut, this wine is very dry and crisp.It's very nice, sharp, bubbly wine for any occasion. While most people think ofthese wines as either for a party or after a meal, dry sparkling wine goes verywell with any number of foods. Most countries produce wine to match theirregional cuisine. French cuisine tends to be very fatty (the "FrenchParadox")so many of their wines go smashingly with fatty food. A greatdeal of American food, especially fast food, is fatty as wellso drier,Champagne-style wines go extraordinarily well with french fries, fried chicken,potato chips, and so on. A regular "we don't feel like cooking" mealaround the Vine House is pizza with a bottle of brut. Give it a try. $10-12.
Freixenet Extra Dry CavaSparkling Wine – This wine, instantly recognizable in its jet black bottle,is a product of Spain."Cava" is the native Spanish grape. As promised by the designation,you'll find this wine a little bit fruitier and “wetter” than Brut. While theyhave similar flavors, I often like a little bit of sweetness to cut through thecarbonation. Asian or Mexican food goes great with extra dry, as does almostany pasta that isn't in a heavy tomato sauce. So do hard cheeses and nuts. Asfor the morning after, extra dry probably makes the best mimosas. Experiment! $10-12.
Mondoro Asti Spumante– Asti Spumante is an Italian version of sparkling wine. Astis tend to besweetermuch more of a "dessert" sparkler. ("Spumante"means that it's "fully sparkling") Astiis made from Muscatand the product tends to have a fresh, grapey taste. An Astior other demi-sec sparkling wineis anentirely different taste experience. This is a very fruity wine with a gentlepleasant sweetness and a little bit of raisin on the finish. Sweeter sparklingwines are best after a meal or with desserts. The Mondoro would go well withfruit or with dark chocolate. Dark chocolate dipped strawberries would bedivine with this. $11-14.
