40th Anniversary: Food

40 Years of Excellence: Milwaukee’s Dining Scene from 1982 to 2022

by

Let’s Eat!

Milwaukee has been blessed with many long running restaurants that continue to serve amazing food. Sadly, we’ve lost some great places too. The following are only a sampling of the great Milwaukee restaurants that have stood the test of time, a few of which were around well before 1982, and some of those gone-but-not-forgotten favorites of 40 years ago.

Some things never change. Folks who don’t want to spend a lot of time or money, or those who keep unconventional hours still need to eat. That convenience may partly contribute to the success of these places, but once you dig in, you’ll know it’s about the food too.

Back in ‘82 Beans & Barley (1901 E. North Ave.) was a bit more health food store than restaurant. Since those days, Beans and Barley has weathered challenges including a fire and being near neighbors to a Whole Foods. “Beans” has long been loved for their food, including an outstanding black bean burrito, and their persistent respect for special dietary requests.

There is something magical about the experience of sitting down in Benji’s (4156 N. Oakland Ave. and 8683 N. Port Washington Road) cozy dining space. Fill your belly and enjoy a giant Reuben, a huge plate of hoppel poppel, divine potato pancakes, or savor a hot bowl of matzo ball soup.

If right now you’re thinking “I don’t recall ever eating at Conejito’s Place” (539 W. Virginia St.), you may remember it better as the Mexican restaurant that serves everything on paper plates. The epitome of inexpensive meals, for as little as $4-$8 you can fill up on tasty tacos, enchiladas, burritos, or tostadas.

There’s almost no place more legendary on the East Side than Ma Fischer’s (2214 N. Farwell Ave.). Outside of pandemic times, their 24/7 model always made it a great place for a hot meal any time of day. Excellent breakfasts, sandwiches, and dinners have made Ma Fischer’s a generational favorite.

While their hours may not be as broad as they were in years past, Mr. Perkin’s (2001 W. Atkinson Ave.) is still a staple on the near North Side for fantastic monthly fish fries, soul food Sundays, and excellent breakfasts and lunches Thursday through Saturday.

When the only thing you want is a piping hot bowl of chili, head to Real Chili (419 E. Wells St. and 1625 W. Wells St.). Some customization is possible with three levels of spice, beans or no beans, with or without spaghetti noodles. Since the 1930s they’ve been a favorite, spot lunchtime to bar time, for a quick, cheap meal Downtown.

Gone-but-not-forgotten lunch counters include Oriental Drugs at North and Farwell, Brady Street Pharmacy and Goldman’s on Mitchell Street that were always good for hot coffee, quick sandwiches or steaming bowls of soup. Stopping in for a 24-hour breakfast or burger at an IHOP or George Webb, both of which had considerably more local outlets in 1982, was a tradition for many Milwaukeeans. Heinemann's was also a favorite stop with their multitude of grilled sandwiches and bottomless cups of coffee. And let’s not forget Marc’s Big Boy with locations all over the metro area, for fan favorite Big Boy Burgers, fish fries and breakfasts.

Dining Out Used to be a Formal Affair

Back in 1982, restaurants tended to be a bit more formal than they are today. No one ever wore tennis shoes or jeans for a big night on the town. The restaurants that have continued to thrive these past 40 years may still have formal settings, and 5-star service, but now few look askance at casually dressed diners.

Elsa’s on the Park (833 N. Jefferson St.) opened on New Year’s Eve 1980 and continues to draw a diverse crowd to a setting that suggests Manhattan more than Milwaukee. The drinks are strong and Elsa’s takes on burgers, nachos and wings brings bar food up several notches.

As the last remaining old-school German Downtown restaurant, Mader’s (1041 N Old World 3rd St) has maintained a loyal following over the years. The quality of the food has remained top-notch, but the nostalgia factor is priceless. Milwaukee remains home for two restaurants serving hearty Serbian food, Old Town (522 W. Lincoln Ave.) and Three Brothers (2414 S. St. Claire St.).

Stepping into Pitch’s (1801 N. Humboldt Ave.) is exactly what you’d hope for when you hear the words “old-school supper club”—classic decor, dynamite ribs, excellent service, and a fantastic brandy old fashioned sweet.

Celebrating their own 40th anniversary this year, Pasta Tree (1503 N. Farwell Ave.) has long been one of the most romantic restaurants in town. Popular with couples on date nights, or celebrating special occasions, the cozy space and outstanding Italian dishes encourages diners to keep that warm cozy feeling inside when they leave.

After a devastating fire in 2010, Pizza Man, once an East Side landmark on North and Oakland, rose from the ashes to open multiple locations around the Milwaukee area. While the specific ambiance of the original may be gone, the vibe and food in the new venues is very similar. Thin crust artichoke a la mode pizza is still the way to go!

Zaffiro’s (1724 N Farwell Ave) is dedicated to the Milwaukee-style thin crust and making each pizza a delicious masterpiece. Their pizzas are served at Marcus theaters minus the Italian restaurant ambiance. Similar in vibe is another long-running Milwaukee joint, Di Marini’s (1211 E Conway St.)

Remember When?

Gone-but-not-forgotten formal dining establishments begin with the unusual options at the Public Natatorium, at Fourth and Lapham, where you could take in a live dolphin show with your dinner. The English Room in the Pfister Hotel was the place to go for classically prepared French food. Long time downtown establishments Karl Ratzsch's and John Ernst Café tried to keep the city’s love for German food in the forefront, but both finally closed their doors, leaving only fond memories of Gemutlichkeit behind. The much beloved Acapulco Lounge at Sixth and National was known for the best authentic Mexican food in the city. William Ho’s on Oakland Avenue in Shorewood was one of the first area restaurants to serve up Sichuan food. Coffee Trader on Downer Avenue was a popular spot for weekend brunch and introduced French press coffee to generations of East Siders. Pieces of Eight at the lakefront, was host to countless seafood buffets, prom dates, and engagements. There are just too many wonderful Milwaukee restaurants that loom large in the collective memory to cite them all here.