Along with a counter, there are about 10 tables. Theplace always seems busy, with lots of regulars, and many customers come forcarryout meals.
The menu consists of hearty fare featuring plenty ofpork, catfish and chicken. Daily specials might be smothered pork chops,chitterlings or turkey legs. Servings are ample and every entrée includes twoside items from a list that is as long as the menu.
Fried chicken, instantly associated with soul food,is the most popular item here. The four jumbo-sized wings ($8.50) are so largethat the side items arrive on a separate plate. The chicken, with a thinSouthern batter, is some of the best to be found locally. The catfish fillet($10.95) is actually a pair of large-sized pieces. When properly prepared,catfish is as delicate as lake perch. This version has a light cornmeal batterand is cooked to perfection. Smothered pork chops ($9.25) are only anoccasional daily special. This pair of large chops is covered with rich, gentlyseasoned gravy. It’s too bad this option isn’t more widely available, as itpresents a refreshing alternative to the many fried dishes.
Once you settle on an entrée, the next move is tochoose your side dishes. Some items, like the greens, will change from day today. Others, such as fried green tomatoes, are available seasonally. Stillother options, like okra, always seem to be available.
Boiled okra has a reputation for being slimy intexture, but when it’s coated in batter and fried it is entirely different andhas a fresh, springtime vegetable flavor. Turnip greens are prepared withoutany smoked pork. Spice these up with a dash of hot sauce. Ditto for theblack-eyed peas. The mac & cheese has good flavor and comes in a largeserving. Pass on the mashed potatoes, one of the few items here that appear tocome from a box. A vegetarian plate is offered, though it is simply a choice ofthree of the side dishes.
No alcohol is served since this is a familyrestaurant, but there is a selection of soft drinks and sweet iced tea. Theowner, Willie Perkins Jr., passed away at the beginning of this year, but therestaurant’s tradition of good food and friendly service continues. Be sure tosave room for a piece of sweet potato pie.n
Mr. Perkins’ Family Restaurant
2001 W. Atkinson Ave.
414-447-6660
$
No Credit Cards
Smoke-Free