It’s been a long wait for HÅm Wood Fired Grill to finally open. Housed in the former Coa, at the Bayshore Town Center, HÅm is owned by the SURG Restaurant Group, which first intended to open this into a second 8-Twelve restaurant and bar. But then that Ryan Braun thing happened and this never occurred. The original 8-Twelve in Brookfield was converted into the first HÅm restaurant. The new Bayshore location takes well to this format. The interior decor has a lot of dark wood, which is appropriate as the wood-fired grill is the centerpiece of the kitchen. The front bar makes a nice, comfortable refuge for mall shoppers with its small gas fireplace. A larger fireplace is in the outdoor dining area. This is a spacious place affording much privacy.
For a test of the grill try these starters, the wood-grilled shrimp ($9) and the grilled wings ($8). The shrimp have just a wisp of the wood smoke, all they really need. They arrive with a standard shrimp cocktail sauce. The chicken wings are prepared with barbecue sauce or a dry rub. The dry rub’s spice blend is more sweet than spicy. Is that a hint of cinnamon? HÅm is farm to table, trying to rely on local suppliers. The garden salad ($6-$9) uses Growing Power mixed greens. The ciabatta croutons are good but the champagne vinaigrette could use more punch.
Main courses offer burgers, sandwiches and entrées that include steak and lobster. With cold weather on its way the beef stroganoff ($13) is a good idea. The beef is tender and there are plenty of fresh mushrooms accented with dill. Add some homemade noodles and sour cream and you have a comforting dish. For a lighter entrée there is the Rushing Waters trout ($19), produced in Palmyra, an area known for its many springs. The trout filets have the skin on and are served over roasted red potatoes. They then are topped with a dab of fennel salad with some fresh orange. The orange flavor also finds its way into the beurre blanc sauce. The pork chop ($24) is a highlight of the menu. This will seem pricey for a single chop but be reassured that it’s thick and so succulent that it puts most other pork to shame. It has some of the spices of pastrami, used in modest amounts, and is served on a nice bed of spaetzle with gruyere cheese.
The staff is young but there are many signs of good training. You will never feel neglected.
HÅm Wood Fired Grill
5750 N. Port Washington Road
414-312-7043
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Handicapped access: Yes
