The customer Ioverheard was referring to a sashimi plate ($10)and it was the lunch portion.The sashimi plate includes 10 slices, large by Japanese standards, of raw fish.The selection is “chef’s choice,” but most likely there will be ruby slices oftuna, pale white hamachi (amberjack), orange-hued salmon and faintly streakedtai (red snapper). And this arrives after miso soup and a salad. The dinnerserving ($21) is even larger, with 16 slices of fish.
Kyoto reopened a few weeks ago, following someremodeling and an expansion. The tables, featuring hardwood surfaces, havedoubled in number. The plastic sushi samples have disappeared from thevestibule, and an expanded sushi bar now has a granite top. The color scheme ismade of soothing brown hues, the staff dresses in basic black and the menu hasgrown. Prices have been modified as wellsome have increased, though thespecial maki rolls are a little cheaper. Overall, everything has improved.
The new menu hasan expanded sake selection and plenty of items to order, though thedescriptions tend to be terse. A new appetizer named hamachi kama($9.50) is listed with no detail at all. It’s a grilled collar of yellowtailamberjack. As much as I enjoy hamachi served raw, the flavor when cooked is intenselydelicious. The few bones are easily found, and the serving is very easy tonegotiate with chopsticks.
Lunch and dinnerboxes include gyozameat-filled dumpling wrappers that are deep-fried untilcrisp and pack a gingery flavorbut they are better and fresher when ordered asan appetizer ($5). Another find, though not new, is the naruto roll ($8). Thisis found in the rolled sushis, but it differs in that seaweed and rice are notused. Instead, thinly sliced cucumber serves as the wrapper. The filling is achoice of tuna, salmon, eel or shrimp, to which crab meat, avocado and masago(smelt roe) are added. It is served with a vinegar sauce similar to a sunomonodressing.
The shrimp tempura($13.50) remains as excellent as ever. Kyoto’sbatter is always feathery and crisp for these six, extra-long shrimp. Misosoup, a salad with ginger dressing and steamed rice are included in the price.The teriyaki dishes are all competently prepared, and some other Asian disheshave been added as well. Thai red curry shrimp and chungking chicken are now onthe menu. A perfectly good version of hot and sour soup ($2) is also offered.The appetizers include salt pepper squid ($7.50), a Cantonese dish arriving ina light, salty batter and sprinkled with minced sweet red pepper and scallions.It is as good as versions found at top Chinese restaurants, and the serving islarge enough to be an entrée.
The sushi andsashimi offerings mostly remain the same. The maguro (tuna) is as fresh as everand toro (tuna belly) is still available. The nigiri sushi and sashimi may beordered as one or two pieces or in various combinations. The largest and mostimpressive is the party boat ($68), which includes 18 pieces of sushi, 18 ofsashimi and three whole maki rolls. It is said to serve three, but theredefinitely will be leftovers.
The choices ofmaki (or rolled) sushi are numerous. A simple cucumber roll with rice andseaweed is $3, while a specialty roll like the Kyoto maki will run $11.50. The Kyoto maki, with itsfilling of shrimp, crab and avocado, is said to be cooked. While the shrimp andcrab are cooked, the roll is topped with slices of salmon that are barelycooked, if at all. The salmon is buttery in texture and the roll is drizzledwith two sauces, one teriyaki and the other a spicy mayonnaise. The flavors arerich and soothing. The “cooked” labels for other rolls appear to be accurate.
Beer is thepreferred beverage at a sushi bar, and there is an appropriate Japaneseselection. Non-drinkers will find large glasses of brewed iced green teaavailable. The service was a bit spotty when Kyoto first reopened, but now it is back tonormal. Even at lunchtime there will be four sushi chefs at work. Tellingly,regular customers seem to like the new quarters. Kyoto’s improvements are very welcome, andthe restaurant clearly is one of the best local places for sushi. n
Kyoto
7453 W. Layton Ave.
414-325-1000
$$
Credit Cards: MC,VS, AX
Smoke-Free
Handicap Access:Yes
