Via Downer is a newventure by the owners of Transfer Pizzeria, a very popular Walker’s Point spot. Transfer is noted forthe great pizza crusts of chef Vasyl Lemberskyy. While pizza is prominent onVia Downer’s menu, diners will also find appetizers, sandwiches and pastas. Theprices are just a tad higher than at Transfer.
The strikinginterior includes wooden tables in addition to a very sleek bar with a lowersection that serves as a lunch counter and a taller one for imbibers. The frontface is made of strips of wood that match the color scheme of the tables. Theinterior has never looked this good before.
There are 16appetizers on the menu, as well as a soup. The soup is gazpacho ($5), thechilled tomato soup of Spanish Andalusia. The primary ingredients are puréed,but the center is topped with minced bell pepper and onion. This is a refreshingsoup for summertime.
When it comes toappetizers, bruschetta and crostini have their own section. The toppings tendto be Mediterraneancheese, olives, roastedvegetables, etc. Crostini with mango and Gorgonzola ($8) consists of lightlytoasted bread slices topped by a thin spread of Gorgonzola cream and mincedripe mango with a bit of basil. The Gorgonzola’s flavor is just a whisper andthe mango is so sweet that it feels like it should be served for brunch. Thecrostini with roasted vegetables and feta seems like a better choice. AranciniMenominee ($5), a play on the rice ball appetizers of Sicily, is made with short-grained Italianrice and a touch of wild rice. Usually arancini comes in a small serving, butthis plate offers nine! The light texture makes them extra-good when dipped ina bit of marinara sauce.
As you’d expect fromthe owners of Transfer, the pizzas at Via Downer are of top-notch quality. Thethin crusts are a bit puffy, not especially crisp. The selection is small, butthere is plenty to like. There are garlic sauce white pizzas like La Bella($12), which is topped with mozzarella and artichoke hearts. A fine traditionalpizza is the pepperoni ($11), featuring zesty tomato sauce, oregano andmozzarella. The pepperoni and the sauce seem made for each other.
A good option fortwo diners is to split a pizza with an appetizer or a salad. The bazilio ($9)is a salad of chopped romaine, leaf lettuce, cucumber, bell pepper, pieces ofcurried chicken breast, grated mozzarella and a dressing with plenty of garlic.The gentle curry allows the garlic to take over. The lettuce comes in properbite-sized pieces.
The three entreesand seven pastas are strictly a la carte. A welcome choice is pork brajola($16), a roulade of pork with a filling of spinach and provolone with hints ofanise. The pork, coated with seasoned bread crumbs and served over marinarasauce, is served with addictive roasted red potatoes and less-compellingbroccoli. Even better is the scallops and linguini ($16), which has caramelizedjumbo sea scallops and thin slices of mushroom in a white wine cream sauce.Everything hits the mark. The linguini is a perfect “al dente” and the scallopsbrim with maritime flavor. Let’s hope Via Downer continues to expand itsselection of entrees and pastas.
The focus is clearlyon food rather than beverages. With two-dozen options to choose from, the beerlist is good enough. But the wine list seems a little limited. There are about30 vintages, with some sold by the glass ($6-$8) and all by the bottle($22-$45).
Will Via Downer be asuccess? Its concept seems to be directly in the middle of Pizzeria Piccola andRistorante Bartolotta. The setting is attractive, the thoughtful menu is aimedat lighter meals, and the prices are very fair. Perhaps this is the place Downer Avenue hasbeen waiting to see.
Via Downer
2625 N. Downer Ave.
(414) 501-4510
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Credit Cards: AllMajor
Handicap Accessible
