Brewski’s: A Milwaukee Steakhouse

By itself, a namelike “Brewski’s” would indicate the type of place for tap beer specials,chicken wings and electronic dartboards. But adding the word “Steakhouse”changes things. The ambitions of Brewski’s Steakhouse are emblazoned in frontof its building, where a sign announces that chef Richard Alvarado formerlyworked at Coerper’s. That would be Coerper’s 5 O’Clock Club, a longtime Milwaukee favorite for jumbo steaks (and, in fact, a placerated as one of the finest steakhouses in the United States by Saveurmagazine).

So is Brewski’s aclone of Coerper’s? Yes and no.

Coerper’s has aclassic 1950s supper-club look not found at Brewski’s, which is located in a formerChinese restaurant. Brewski’s color scheme includes landlord beige walls andgold and brown patterned carpeting. While the small bar is not quite largeenough for the waiting customers, the outdoor dining patio is a nice amenity.

The similarity betweenCoerper’s and Brewski’s lies in the menu. You will find enormous steaks, jumboshrimp and whole racks of ribs that spill over the platter. Resist the urge toorder an appetizer or the crock of onion soup. The soup is perfectly good, buta lot of food is on the wayin fact, servers use carts to bring items out.

The first deliverywill be a salad, relish tray and loaf of sourdough. All are included in theentrée price. The simple salad includes lettuce, red onion, tomato and slicesof cucumber and mushroom. Dressings come on the side; the blue cheese has theflavor of sour cream. The relish tray is retro with scallions, cherry peppers,carrots, pickles and pepperoncini. The bread is served with a section of abutter stick, not butter that has been whipped and likely recycled. Eat lightlyand allow time for the entrees to arrive.

The next time thecart arrives it will be loaded with meat and potatoes. The king of the steaksis a 38-ounce porterhouse, but even the smaller filet is a small mountain ofmeat. A pair of pork chops weighs in at 16 ounces each! Steaks are cooked athigh temperatures. Do not be surprised if one ordered “rare” arrives with acharred crustit will still be perfect in the middle.

One popular cut isthe bone-in rib-eye ($38). The meat, as with all of the steaks, is juicy andtender. The char shows hints of marinade, which is fine for the beef but lessso for the lamb chops ($32). The three chops are cooked correctly, but they arethinner than any of the beef cuts and the charred crust detracts from theflavor and identity of the lamb.

There is more herethan simply beef, including a pair of pork chops ($26) and a rack of barbecueribs ($26-$27), as well as jumbo shrimp, king crab legs and lobster tail atmarket prices. Six of the shrimp will run about $26. They are definitely jumbo,but not the oversized prawns. The scampi preparation means they come withbutter and abundant garlic and are served over white rice. Most diners choose alarge baked potato for a starch. The potatoes are slit open as they arrive atthe table. Sour cream comes on the side. A rice pilaf is also offered, but itis nothing special.

With a name likeBrewski’s, the beer list should be more comprehensive. The selection here issparse and all beers are the same price. Five dollars for a Sierra Nevada Aleis not bad, but the same price for a Miller Lite? Ouch! The wine list is notmuch better, but the prices vary and the bar gives a generous pour.

Nobody goesunnoticed due to Brewski’s attentive service. The kitchen maintains its pace atall timesthis is a carefully run business. Expect to take home some leftoversin a brown paper bag. For the amount of food and the quality, the value is notbad. This is very much a Milwaukeesteakhouse, and there is always room in the city for a place like Brewski’s.

Brewski’s Steakhouse

6024 W. Bluemound Road

(414) 312-7891

$$$

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