Chef Justin Aprahamian stepped into an enviable but challenging opportunity when he was handed the keys to one of Milwaukee’s highly regarded establishments. Having served as the chef de cuisine at Sanford under the guidance of its original owner, he recently commented, “It’s a lot of pressure but very humbling to be part of the future of the restaurant.” On the eve of their 25th anniversary, it’s important to acknowledge that Aprahamian and the Sanford crew are still cranking out some of the most creative food in town.
The menu changes daily and combines the best of seasonal ingredients with world flavors. Recent offerings featured an exquisitely light and crisp tempura-fried squash blossom served with pattypan squash, arugula and pickled blueberries. The kitchen excels at fish and seafood including swordfish perfectly seared and accented with Asian flavors of miso noodles, chard and sesame vinaigrette; cured and seared salmon with radishes and an apple emulsion; and sea scallop with Caribbean accents of mango, passion fruit and key lime curd. Quail with a masa dumpling, and savory beef tenderloin accompanied by cured foie gras, potato puree and cherries are two exceptional meat and game offerings.
Aprahamian says the fall menu will include grilled veal loin with Bolognese cannelloni and lovage pesto, and a duo of elk loin and sausage with grilled chicory and black currant mostarda. Regulars to Sanford will recognize classics that have been on the menu since its inception including grilled pear and Roquefort tart, Provincial fish soup with rouille, and grilled marinated tuna with cumin wafers.
Sanford showcases exquisite desserts with the same creative flair, often prepared fresh to order. Recent offerings included a German chocolate cake with burnt almond ice cream, a warm chocolate tart, and house-prepared ice creams and sorbets. Two standouts are a yogurt cake accompanied by Georgia peaches and a Door County cherry tart with vanilla ice cream.
The influence that Sanford has had on the Milwaukee dining scene cannot be underestimated. Most local food enthusiasts are familiar with founding Chef Sandy D’Amato’s career as a culinary genius who created his own style of cooking by combining local ingredients with world flavors. As a recipient of a James Beard Award (the Academy Awards of the culinary scene) who garnered national media exposure, his many career highlights included cooking for Julia Child and the Dalai Lama. Countless chefs have passed through the Sanford kitchen including David Swanson (Braise), Chris Hatleli and Nick Burki (Coquette), Andy Schneider (Le Reve) and Dave Jurena (Soup Market).
Aprahamian, having recently won a James Beard Award himself, is quick to acknowledge the debt he owes to D’Amato: “The approach to food [at Sanford] is grounded in what I have learned working with him for so long.” Thanks to trailblazers like D’Amato, Milwaukee dining is in a golden age. As local chefs open progressive restaurants in record numbers, it’s good to know that Aprahamian and his crew at Sanford are still leading the charge.
The Sanford experience for many is a special occasion restaurant but well worth the price. The service, quality and originality surpass the average dining experience. The menu features a la carte appetizers ($9-$18), soups ($10), salads ($10-12), entrées ($32-$36) and desserts ($10). There is a prix fix four-course tasting menu ($49) and a seven-course chef’s choice menu ($85). An extensive wine list is available by the glass or bottle. With Aprahamian’s passion for beer, the beverage menu now features draught selections including the inaugural Serre Rhubarb Saison he created with Like Minds Brewing partner John Lavelle.
John Reiss is a professional chef who lives and works in Milwaukee. For full disclosure, he is acquainted with the Sanford crew.
Sanford
1547 N Jackson St.
414-276-9608
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Handicap access: Yes
