The most obviousexterior change is a large, brilliant red sign that can be seen from Brady Street.Another sign dubs Trocadero a “Gastrobar.” Inside, the bar has been relocatedto its original place in the triangular front room. Spacious booths havereplaced the bar’s previous spot. The dining porch is fully glassed in, and theair is clearer now that Trocadero has gone smoke-free indoors.
In many ways, theplace seems the same. For instance, there is something familiar about the sceneof a couple sitting at a table overlooking the outdoor terrace. They have abottle of champagne in a bucket of ice and an enamel pot of steamed bluemussels. Later, a tuna Nicoise salad arrives with a thick slab of grilled ahituna. Yet there is also something different in this picture: The mussels have aThai green curry sauce. And this is just the start of the changes. Steak andfrites are still here, but now you will also find fish tacos and theaforementioned mussels, which can also be ordered with an onion and chorizosauce.
The wine selectionhas shrunk dramatically in favor of a large Belgian beer list. And the cheeseplate takes a back seat to a jalapeno cornbread skillet.
Who needs Frenchonion soup? Instead, try the charred poblano and sweet corn chowder($3.95-$5.95), a vegetarian soup with fresh corn kernels, tomatoes, onions,gentle hints of spicy poblano peppers and just a touch of sour cream. Mexicantouches also appear in a starter item, Baja fish tacos ($9.95). This is a trioof tacos, each a single corn tortilla with small pieces of cod in a Corona beer batter,chipotle aioli, avocado mousse and Latin slaw. Remove a bit of the overlyabundant aioli and enjoy some decent tacos. Jerk shrimp skewers ($9.95) soundJamaican, but there are only the faintest hints of allspice on the four jumboshrimp, and drizzles of a teriyaki-like sauce on the plate would indicate anAsian influence. Still, this is an excellent shrimp appetizer, featuring a redcabbage slaw with bits of fresh pineapple (now that’s more Caribbean inspirit).
Entrees are listedunder the title “The Big Hunger Plan.” This is where you’ll find the steak ’nfrites ($22.95). This is the sole French item on the menu, and even this entréeis topped with ancho lime butter. The mild ancho chiles also appear with thered devil chicken ($14.95), a half-bird served in four pieces with the bone.The batter has a reddish hue thanks to smoked paprika. The spicing level is notdevilish at all; rather, it is on the mild, peppy side, in a twist on AmericanSouthern-fried chicken. Hitachino braised beef ($17.95) consists of smallpieces of short ribs in a shoyu glaze. Hitachino is a Japanese brewery andshoyu is a true brewed soy sauce. The meat is accompanied by some veggies likescallions, cucumbers and snap peas, though the peas are not of the Asianvariety. The key to this dish is the mango salsa, as the diced pieces of freshmango add their trademark sweetness.
Tracadero’ssandwiches and burgers remain mostly unchanged. The gastro burger ($11.95) hasblack salt, Nueske’s bacon, caramelized onion, cheddar, sriracha mayo, lettuceand tomato. It may not be cheap, but it is a big burger made of prime beef andincludes frites. Dipping sauces are available for a small additional charge.
The last majorchange is the addition of weekday breakfasts. This menu retains the quicheLorraine and adds the jalapeño cornbread skillet.
Trocadero looks asgood as ever, and the outdoor terrace is a fine place to nurse some Belgianales. Enjoy the international spirit of the new Trocadero.
Trocadero Gastrobar
1758 N. Water St.
(414) 272-0205
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Credit Cards: AllMajor
Smoking: OutdoorsOnly
