Thirst and Vine is the vision of John and AnneNehring, whose other enterprises include Sendik’s in Shorewood and Groppi’smarket in Bay View. Their other ventures help to explain the wine and cheeseselection. The current spot occupies the location of the former Jean-Pierre,which the couple also owned.
The current wine list includes about 50 choices,with servings in 2-ounce ($3-$10) or 5-ounce glasses ($6-$20). Bottles areavailable at retail prices ($13.99-$49.99), with an additional corkage fee($5-$10). In addition to wine, there is a small, select beer list. No wonderpeople enjoy spending time here.
Half of the menu is devoted to cheeses andcharcuterie. The available cheeses are all described in detail. There are fourdifferent cheese plates, though you can also customize your own by request,perhaps by adding a bit of prosciutto or Marieke fenugreek Gouda. One plate, the Don Quixote ($16.95),is devoted to Spanish products such as tiny Arbequina olives and plump Marconaalmonds. The cheeses include goat milk, manchego and mahon, a hard cheese in paper-thin slicesthat glisten with olive oil. In the center are slices of Serrano ham, Spain’s counterpart to France’s Bayonneand Italy’sprosciutto. In addition to grapes and sliced apples, a side plate offersassorted breads and crackers.
The rest of the menu tends to be lighter fare suchas soups, salads, mac and cheese and panini. The menu, which is updated weekly,is available via their website (www.thirstandvine.com). Along with threedifferent entrees each week, the soup changes daily. The soups ($3.50-$5.95)have always been excellent. One visit offered a fine Italian weddingsoupchicken broth with tiny meatballs and round pasta. Another day it wasmashed chicken with fresh peas and pasta. These are vibrant springtime flavors.
In addition, there are three salads: a Cobb, aniceberg lettuce wedge and a weekly special. The wedge has Thousand Islanddressing, plenty of blue cheese and bits of Nueske’s bacon. A decent rollaccompanies the salad. This restaurant pays attention to good breads.
The mac and cheese comes in two versions. The basic($6.95-$8.95) offers four cheeses, and the gourmet ($8.95-$10.95) is an evenmeatier version. At one visit the gourmet was a satisfying blend of cheddar,Parmesan, jack, provolone and Asiago with some pancetta thrown in.
The three entrees change quite a bit. Past optionsinclude short ribs and seared monkfish. Recently, the wine sausage kebabs($14.95) consisted of small skewers with tomatoes, onions and three differentsausages of duck, pheasant and venison served over sauerkraut and boiledred-skinned potatoes. The real star, though, was spring veggie gnocchi($12.95). The light gnocchi, stuffed with spinach and ricotta, were almostfeathery in texture. The veggies consisted of peas, carrots, corn kernels andasparagus. The gnocchi, served in a bowl with a vegetable, made for a superbvegetarian entrée.
Thirst and Vine is not a place for a rushed mealtheservice has a Parisian pace where you will never feel rushed from a table. Sitback, relax and enjoy the charcuterie and wine.
Thirst and Vine
4330 N. Oakland Ave.
(414) 763-7340
$$
Smoke-free
Handicap Accessible
Closed Mondays and Tuesdays
