If there was one restaurant trend in Milwaukee in 2019, it was new beginnings. A large number of established restaurants completed big remodels, renovations or reopenings this year. Bacchus, one of the Bartolotta Group's flagships, got an almost two-month-long renovation for its 15th anniversary. Buckley's got a huge expansion that nearly tripled its size at the beginning of the year, Dream Dance Steak in Potawatomi Hotel & Casino became Dream Dance Steakhouse with an expanded bar, arch of wine bottles and all new finishes, while the Lowlands Group’s Centraal Grand Café in Bay View got a complete overhaul with an expanded kitchen and 70 draft lines. Even tiny gas station favorite Chilango Express moved down the street to a bigger, renovated, full-service space.
There were also restaurants that reopened this year to much fanfare, like Crawdaddy’s Roadhouse. This is the second time it has reopened by the original owner, and the third time seems to be the charm as they’ve recaptured the same energetic atmosphere and some of the crave-worthy food. Another throwback West Allis restaurant, Pepi’s Pizzeria, also reopened in a new location after closing in 2016.
Pasta was popular this year, perhaps because Milwaukeeans were still seeking out comfort food. Egg & Flour Pasta Bar in the Crossroads Collective wowed everyone enough with its daily handmade pastas in a casual atmosphere that it is opening a standalone location next year. Ca'Lucchenzo, one of the best new restaurants that opened this year, also specializes in fresh pasta that you can watch being made as you eat. And Momo Mee, a noodle and dumpling restaurant, serves handmade Asian noodle dishes from yakisoba to dan dan noodles.
Diners came into their own this year, perhaps because people can never seem to get enough nostalgia. Recently opened Wonderland in Riverwest is a playful take on an all-day diner, with vintage, colorful decor and classic diner fare with plenty of vegan options. Uncle Wolfie's Breakfast Tavern, while not a typical diner, has the same comforting feel with some unique brunch and lunch items.
Time of Transition
This was also the year of food halls in Milwaukee, with both Sherman Phoenix and Crossroads Collective opening up at the very end of last year, as well as the Mequon Public Market in June. Sherman Phoenix offers some great wings, pizza and ice cream, plus lots of support for the surrounding neighborhood and its residents. Crossroads Collective is trendy, with some top-notch barbecue, a speakeasy and some serious turnover in vendors. The Mequon Public Market, while relatively small, has some stalwart tenants, like Café Corazón and St. Paul Fish Company, plus some delicious Greek cuisine at Santorini Grill.
Chain restaurants did not go unnoticed by locals this year, who lost their collective minds about a few openings. Two restaurants in Brookfield—the promised land of chains—got loads of attention. Uncle Julio's, a Mexican restaurant, opened at the very end of last year, and people were talking about it and its thin, easily breakable tortilla chips for months. Wahlburgers, a chain from the Wahlberg family of Hollywood, boy band and reality show fame, had long waits from the moment they opened. And in one of the most talked-about openings in a long time, Lou Malnati’s, the Chicago deep dish pizza chain, opened a takeout location in Fox Point.
Unfortunately, turnover remained pretty high in 2019, and a number of notable restaurants closed, including Silver Spring House, Dino’s in Riverwest after over 50 years in business, Kindred on KK, St. Francis Brewery, Friday’s Front Row at Miller Park and Devon Seafood in Bayshore.
Finally, the one thing that rocked the restaurant world in Milwaukee most this year was the passing of Joe Bartolotta. He opened his first restaurant, Ristorante Bartolotta, in Wauwatosa with his brother Paul in 1993. He was one of the most influential people to shape Milwaukee's early food renaissance, and his presence is greatly missed.
