Coerper’s Five O’Clock Club was the local veteran of steakhouses, founded by the Coerper family in 1948. A few years ago, when ownership changed, the name simplified to the Five O’Clock Steakhouse. But all else remains the same. There are still two dining areas, both with access to the bar, and the Deco-ish décor appears to be straight out of 1948. It’s a classic supper club setting. Competition from Mr. B’s and Carnevor, as well as chains like Fleming’s and the Capital Grille have had no effect on business. Reservations are a good idea on weeknights and essential on weekends.
Your order is taken at the bar, allowing time to savor a drink. After a few minutes your table will be ready and a few complementary items will arrive—sourdough bread, a relish tray and a large bowl of salad. The dressings are appropriate for this type of place. The salad is a mixture of greens beefed up with pieces of cauliflower. Several appetizers are offered but these are only for the truly famished because Five O’Clock’s entrées are generous. However, the lobster mac ’n’ cheese loaded with briny Maine lobster meat ($17) is worth splurging for. It is so good! Another option is the half rack of barbeque ribs ($14) with a sauce more sweet than tangy. A full rack is also served as an entrée ($28).
The obvious entrée to order here, however, is steak. Options include New York strip ($40), rib-eye ($41), filet mignon ($31-$43) and porterhouse ($43). There are also lamb or pork chops, plus a few seafood entrées. The filet mignon is served in two sizes and is thick, tender and cooked to order. The steaks are topped with mushrooms sautéed in butter, but if you want a baked potato there is an extra charge. Enjoy every succulent piece of beef. This is what the Five O’Clock does best.
The filet is also served wrapped in bacon ($31) or in an oscar preparation ($36) with white wine sauce and fresh asparagus. It’s rich in calories and flavor. But don’t ignore the remainder of the menu. The shrimp scampi ($27) is a platter of eight jumbo shrimp over a bed of rice in a sauce laced with garlic. While the steaks are the restaurant’s claim to fame, this is perfectly acceptable.
There are more than 30 beers listed (seven of them craft brews) and, although the wine list is not enormous, the majority of bottles are in the $25-$50 range. The Five O’Clock is a trip to the 1950s with a comfortable setting, dimly lit and unpretentious. The customers’ attention is focused mainly on the meat.
Five O’Clock Steakhouse
2416 W. State St.
(414) 342-3553
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Handicapped access: yes
