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Emperor of China (1010 E. Brady St.)offers an extensive Chinese menu with many regional specialties. And when thekung pao chicken and twice-cooked pork start to seem mundane, the restaurantprovides another option: a quarterly “specials” menu that adds further insightinto Chinese food. The current, spring menu adds nine items, three of which arevegetarian. Lettuce wraps may seem commonplace, but there also is somethingcalled pow pow shashrimp in a sweet and spicy glaze with hints of garlic. Twoitems from Taiwaninclude Japanese influences. The more unusual is a steamed filet of sole toppedwith ground roasted soybeans. Its flavors are clean and simple, and it is veryunlike anything else on the menu (be sure to allow extra time for the kitchento prepare this item). Special menus like this are the key to keepingrestaurants vibrant. Everybody likes something new and different.