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Lettuce wraps havebecome quite the trend at Chinese and Thai restaurants. Indeed, it is nearlymandatory to order them at P.F. Chang’s. They are also a tradition at Koreanrestaurants, especially those that specialize in tabletop barbecues. Milwaukee’s lone restaurant solely devoted to Korean foodis the aptly named Seoul(2178 N. Prospect Ave.).Seoul does nothave tabletop barbecues, so the best time to try Korean lettuce wraps is at thelunch buffet. The lettuce wraps are called “ssam.” The buffet has a large stackof lettuce leaves, so take a few and be creative. Start with some meatthere isalways beef bulgogi and spicy porkand then head to the condiments. You willfind cabbage, daikon kimchee and milder veggies like bean sprouts. Consideradding a bit of steamed rice, wrap the lettuce into a roll, and enjoy. (Thishas the added advantage of lightening up the meatthe spicy pork is especiallyrich on its own.) Seoul may be Milwaukee’s only Korean restaurant, but italso happens to be a very good one.