Oneof the area’s most consistent Mexican restaurants is located just ashort distance from the airport: Jalapeno Loco (5067 S. Howell Ave.).Everything is good, whether your preference is pork enchiladas or afine Oaxacan mole. Mexican paper cutouts make the dining room explodewith color. You’ll find seasonal specials in addition to thesubstantial standard menu. A recent option was called Hugo’s InsaneSpecial, in reference to the owner, Hugo Saynes. The special is achoice of jumbo shrimp or chicken breast; the insanity comes from thesauce, which is prepared with habanero pepper and a hint of bluecheese. Most other local Mexican restaurants rely on arbol chiles fortheir spiciest fare, but this sauce has the golden hue of a Oaxacanmole amarillo. The sauce is spicy and the intensity of the habaneroincreases with timeit may not be insane, but it is a very good sauce.And it makes a fine addition to an already impressive menu.
Photo by Amelia Coffaro