Chardonnay is the United States' most popular wineandperhaps the most popular in the world. Walk into almost any neighborhood bar orfive-star restaurant. Nine times out of 10, the "house white" will beChardonnay.
The history of Chardonnay is somewhat unclear, but there isa town by the same name in Mâcon in the Burgundy region of France. A groupof monks in Chardonnay were the first to cultivate the grape for "massproduction and distribution." Today, almost any white from Burgundy will be almostentirely of that grape.
Chardonnay is a hardy, flexible grape and the flavor changesradically depending on terroir. Coolerclimate chards tend to be crisper and tarter, while warmer climes make forfruitier, creamier wines.
To keep things simple, you can expect to run into threebasic flavor profiles of Chardonnay: minerally, oaky, and buttery. Here's an illustrationof each:
Louis Jadot 2008 Mâcon-Villages(France)– $9-11
Alamos 2008Chardonnay (Argentina)– $9-11
Kendall-Jackson 2007Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay (California)– $12-14
First up is the Louis Jadot. In French wine nomenclature,the best wines are named after their growing place. Pouilly-Fuissé is the homeof the best white Burgundies. These wines tend to run $25 and up. However, "Mâcon-Villages"means the grapes can be from anywhere in Mâconthe region in which Pouilly andFuissé are located. Eevery bit as goodless than half the cost.
This wine has a very light, citrusy nose with a little scentof something like licorice. The taste is very clean and a little tart, likegreen apples. The finish is very crisp and pleasant. This is a classic FrenchChardonnay, which tastes more like Sauvignon Blanc than Chardonnays from otherplaces in the world. Extremely refreshing and light.
The Argentinean Chardonnay gives us the "oak"profile. Over the last several years, Argentina has become known forChardonnay. The Alamos starts with a nose of ripe peaches, but the taste is aradical shift. As crisp and light as the French is, this one tastes big. Theflavor is peaches, toasted almonds, and oak you can't miss. You'll know exactlyfrom here on out what someone's talking about when they mention oaky. Thefinish is smoky and lasts a long time.
Finally, bring in the butter. California chardonnays became parodies ofthemselves through much of the 90's, as the winemakers went overboard with"oaking" their wines. They've settled down a bit, and"buttery" Chardonnay is becoming more common among California wines. Some California winemakersare swinging to the other end of the spectrum and producing "unoaked"Chardonnaysattempts to get back to the Burgundy tradition.
The Kendall-Jackson smells sweeter and heavier than the Alamos,much more like peach cobbler than peaches. The flavor has a bit of sweetnessand more of that peach flavor, but with a creamy vanilla taste. The Alamos hada stronger flavor, but the K-J was richer and fuller. There was a little bit ofoak on the finish, held in check by the creaminess.
What to eat with these? If I were drinking one on its own,I'd go with the Louis Jadot. I'd also have this with just about any kind oflighter fish or shellfish. An oaky chardonnay will pair more effectively withsomething smokier, like grilled chicken or veggies, or even a filet if you wantwhite with a steak. The buttery chardonnaypredictably, goes more effectivelywith creamier sauces, richer fishes, and almost anything you can picture withbutter.
Next up, we dare return to big red territorySyrah.
Class dismissed.
