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As the Binkery demonstrates, appearances can bedeceiving. The West Bend establishment appearsto be another well-preserved, early-20th-century Wisconsinfarmhouse turned into a cozy eaterynothing out of the ordinary about thatnowadays. But an eclectic menu of casual fine dining sets apart the restaurantwith the cutesy moniker (so named for a former owner, BinkSteinbach). And it's removed from the pack in quite a good way.
The house containing the Binkery has been moveda couple of times since its construction in the early 1900s to its currentlocale near downtown West Bend. Anenclosed porch, added to the original edifice some years ago, makes for abustling, though not quite cramped, environment of diners on those eveningswhen seating is at a premium. Reservations, especially for evening hours, aresuggested.
Belying the rural origins of the structure,colorfully squiggly modern art adorns the walls further back on the firstfloor. The second floor is currently under renovation to include anotherbar with a sports theme and the accoutrements of that currently fashionableplace of masculine commiseration and hibernation: the man cave.
That kind of addition could make for a greater varietyof clientele. The Binkery, however, already has a good thing going with amenu that serves cosmopolitan cuisine with a smaller-town, down-to-earth feel.
An example is the cassoulet of lamb.The French white bean stew features lamb mingled with pork sausage slicesspiced to mild heat and chicken confit (meat cooked in its own fat andpreserved). Exotic as that may seem in a place that maintains Wisconsin's Friday fishfry tradition, the potentially froufrou dish has the lip-smackingheartiness you’d expect to find following a day's worth of farm work. Theservers’ friendliness and willingness to answer questions about the menu add to TheBinkery's already cheery ambiance.
Diners may want to wash down the meal with a Lithiabeer, the recently revived hometown brand now brewed by Sprecher andfeatured on tap here. Its bitter, hoppy top and almost caramel,cream-soda-like undercurrent work well with the lamb and pork scallopini.The pork scallopini's nearly wafer-thin cutlets are served withsubtle marsala sauce with mushrooms and slivers of shallots over fettuccine.Great Lakes Brewing's chocolatey Edmund Fitzgerald porter offers anotherdrink option.
Seafood gets its due here as well, and not justby the aforementioned fish fry. A pleasing crab-and-shrimp-stuffed whitefish isserved in a lemon-caper beurre blanc, a frothy reduction sauce of winevinegar, green onions and butter. The fish taco appetizer comesfrom more of a cross-cultural reference point, as shells with the crispfluffiness of Indian naan bread cradle the slightly jerk-spiced mahi andshrimp, garnished with a vinegary Mexican coleslaw, or cabbage pico, and cr%uFFFDme fraiche. The south-of-the-borderofferings continue with a guacamole and chips appetizer. During my next visit,I’d like to to try the tomato tart, with the fruit of choice nestled amidbalsamic vinegar, garlic and basil pesto on a puff pastry.
Cups of soup and side salads areoffered as starters for an additional $2 with a main dish. Freshlytoasted, garlicky croquettes accompany the soups. The before-entree saladconsists of a simple mix of Romaine leaves and veggies. Neithersoup nor salad overwhelms.
The lunch menu consists of a large variety ofburgers, salads and sandwiches.
Don’t forget about dessert. The crust of the cr%uFFFDme br%uFFFDlée resembles a sugary ice layer with a blueberryand raspberry on top. A rich chocolate cake is studded with chocolatechips (and it’s worth dipping every bite into the accompanying sauce). Thefrosting on a red velvet cupcake (chocolate and vanilla bean also available)vies for the attention of your taste buds with the treat underneath.
West Bend'shistorical society has acknowledged the value of the Binkery's building.Its culinary value should be recognized for anyone making the trip there, too.
The Binkery
The house containing the Binkery has been moveda couple of times since its construction in the early 1900s to its currentlocale near downtown West Bend. Anenclosed porch, added to the original edifice some years ago, makes for abustling, though not quite cramped, environment of diners on those eveningswhen seating is at a premium. Reservations, especially for evening hours, aresuggested.
Belying the rural origins of the structure,colorfully squiggly modern art adorns the walls further back on the firstfloor. The second floor is currently under renovation to include anotherbar with a sports theme and the accoutrements of that currently fashionableplace of masculine commiseration and hibernation: the man cave.
That kind of addition could make for a greater varietyof clientele. The Binkery, however, already has a good thing going with amenu that serves cosmopolitan cuisine with a smaller-town, down-to-earth feel.
An example is the cassoulet of lamb.The French white bean stew features lamb mingled with pork sausage slicesspiced to mild heat and chicken confit (meat cooked in its own fat andpreserved). Exotic as that may seem in a place that maintains Wisconsin's Friday fishfry tradition, the potentially froufrou dish has the lip-smackingheartiness you’d expect to find following a day's worth of farm work. Theservers’ friendliness and willingness to answer questions about the menu add to TheBinkery's already cheery ambiance.
Diners may want to wash down the meal with a Lithiabeer, the recently revived hometown brand now brewed by Sprecher andfeatured on tap here. Its bitter, hoppy top and almost caramel,cream-soda-like undercurrent work well with the lamb and pork scallopini.The pork scallopini's nearly wafer-thin cutlets are served withsubtle marsala sauce with mushrooms and slivers of shallots over fettuccine.Great Lakes Brewing's chocolatey Edmund Fitzgerald porter offers anotherdrink option.
Seafood gets its due here as well, and not justby the aforementioned fish fry. A pleasing crab-and-shrimp-stuffed whitefish isserved in a lemon-caper beurre blanc, a frothy reduction sauce of winevinegar, green onions and butter. The fish taco appetizer comesfrom more of a cross-cultural reference point, as shells with the crispfluffiness of Indian naan bread cradle the slightly jerk-spiced mahi andshrimp, garnished with a vinegary Mexican coleslaw, or cabbage pico, and cr%uFFFDme fraiche. The south-of-the-borderofferings continue with a guacamole and chips appetizer. During my next visit,I’d like to to try the tomato tart, with the fruit of choice nestled amidbalsamic vinegar, garlic and basil pesto on a puff pastry.
Cups of soup and side salads areoffered as starters for an additional $2 with a main dish. Freshlytoasted, garlicky croquettes accompany the soups. The before-entree saladconsists of a simple mix of Romaine leaves and veggies. Neithersoup nor salad overwhelms.
The lunch menu consists of a large variety ofburgers, salads and sandwiches.
Don’t forget about dessert. The crust of the cr%uFFFDme br%uFFFDlée resembles a sugary ice layer with a blueberryand raspberry on top. A rich chocolate cake is studded with chocolatechips (and it’s worth dipping every bite into the accompanying sauce). Thefrosting on a red velvet cupcake (chocolate and vanilla bean also available)vies for the attention of your taste buds with the treat underneath.
West Bend'shistorical society has acknowledged the value of the Binkery's building.Its culinary value should be recognized for anyone making the trip there, too.
The Binkery
110 Wisconsin St., West Bend
(262) 334-3702
$$-$$$
Credit Cards: MC, VS
Handicap Accessible
