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The St. Paul FishCo. (400 N. Water St.,inside the Milwaukee Public Market) combines a retail operation with tableservice and an oyster bar named Karen Jean's. The oysters are always fine andthe selection changes frequently. The well-known live Maine lobster special, served every day,includes a whole steamed lobster for just $12.95. A lobster roll was recentlyadded at the same price. The rule for a good New Englandlobster roll: “Keep it simple.” The roll is little more than a glorifiedhot-dog bun, while chunks of lobster meat in mayonnaise come with bits ofcelery and scallion. The menu is large enough, but it is also possible to orderitems that are not listed. For example, during a recent weekday lunch, a familyenjoyed a feast of king crab legs. The St. Paul Fish Co. aims to please itscustomers.