The interior atWard’s has not changed much since its days as Yanni’s. The front room with thebar has a soaring ceiling and the two dining rooms remain spacious andcomfortable. Do not be discouraged if the bar is swarming with people onweekends. The dining rooms are large and tables will usually be availableimmediately.
The menu revolvesaround red meat, though chicken and seafood are also offered. The bar, whichhas its own menu of lighter items, serves food until 1 a.m.
Steak prices havesoared in recent years. While Ward’s prices cannot be considered low, theentrees do include soup or salad and a choice of potatoand that means a littleextra cash for appetizers. It is hard to go wrong with the pan-seared seascallops ($13). The big scallops are perfectly cooked, barely touching the bedof plum raspberry saucejust the right accent for the sweet scallops. Carpacciois on the menu, but why is it made with smoked beef? Flatbreads, labeled as“Jimmy’s stonefired flatbreads,” have a thin crust and are the size of personalpizzas. There are five toppings to choose from, along with a special of theweek. The crab flatbread ($11.50) has blue crab claw meat and chopped scallionswith Alfredo sauce. The crust is quite good, but the crab seems out of itselement and short on flavor. The other flatbreads sound more promising.
The housespecialty, prime rib, is sold in three sizes: 8 ounces ($19.95), 16 ounces($27.95) and 24 ounces ($34.95). The meat, cooked in a range from medium-rareto well-done, is tender and succulent, but not as flavorful as it could be.It’s adequate, but something is missing. Then again, prime rib is not what itwas 20 years ago.
The veal marsala ($26.95), on theother hand, is quite good. The meat is not served as pounded medallions, butrather as three reasonably thick slices of tenderloin. The sweet marsala winehas minced shallots and slices of mushroom that create a thoroughly pleasantdish.
The house salad isan ordinary lettuce mix with cherry tomato, cucumber and red onion. Thedressings offer no surprises. The soup of the day may be upgraded to prime ribchili or lobster bisque. The bisque is rich and has numerous bits of lobstermeat.
The bar ispleasant on quieter nights. Along with a fine selection of scotch and cognac,the wine list is huge and the beer list is good enough. The bar menu differsenough from the regular onethis is the place to order one of the flatbreadswith wine. The appetizers from the main menu are all available, and it is evenpossible to order the sea scallops or jumbo shrimp by the piecethe ultimatelight meal!
Ward’s is off to agood start. The menu and prices seem about right and the service, while farfrom perfect, is caring toward customers. Steakhouses still seem too abundantin the Downtown area, so Ward’s will have to beat out a great deal ofcompetition.
Ward’s House ofPrime
540 E. Mason St.
(414) 223-0135
$$$-$$$$
Credit Cards: AllMajor
Smoking: At Bar
Handicap Access:Yes
