In2005 John Smurawa opened Roux Brothers, a small place in Shorewoodgeared to the carryout trade but stocked with a large selection ofbottled hot sauces. Smurawa had more ambitious plans, however, and in2007 moved to larger quarters in Cedarburg.
Restaurants featuring the foods of Louisianahave not fared well during the last decade in this area. Zydeco, NewOrleans and Nola’s have all vanished. It’s hard to find a good gumbo inWisconsinthese days, but Roux offers a tasty option made with chicken andandouille ($4.75- $8.25). A proper gumbo is thickened with the additionof okra or a flour roux (this one uses the latter). Celery, onion andmild green pepper accompany the meats, and the seasoning includes boldspices. A bowl of white rice is served on the side.
For a starter, youwon’t go wrong with the fried green tomatoes ($6.75). Though the slicesare thicker than normal, they are perfectly prepared, with a thincornmeal crust and a pleasantly tart flavor. You’ll also find a Creoletomato sauce enhanced with onions and a few chopped scallions. Thesauce may seem a distraction, but it’s very good on its own.
Don’texpect a large menu, as the small kitchen handles sandwiches, burgersand just four entrees. Do, however, expect large servings. LouisianaBBQ pork ($8.75) is a sandwich of pork shoulder smoked withbourbon-soaked wood chips. The menu says that the meat is pulled, butthese slivers have been sliced. It hardly matters, though, because thebarbe cue sauce is sweet and has just enough heat to make Tabasco sauceunnecessary. The chick en Creole melt ($8.50) is a breaded breast withthat same Creole tomato sauce, which seems perfectly at home here. Adda slice of melted cheese and a good bun and you have anoth er winner.All sandwiches include a choice of Zapp’s potato chips made in NewOrleans.
The four entrees are Louisianaclassics: Shrimp etouffee, shrimp Creole, red beans and rice andjambalaya. The jambalaya ($12.95) is the Creole version, often called“red jambalaya” thanks to the use of tomato. The meats are made up ofchicken, andouille and ham, and the sauce offers celery, green pepperand onion. This is probably the best jambalaya I have found in thisarea, even including the failed restaurants of the past. The seasoningmakes the difference, with just enough cayenne pepper.
Allof the ingredients’ flavors serve a purpose, even the andouille. Thered beans and rice with meats ($10.95) comes with a large amount ofbeans, but the meats are very welcome, and include Arkansas ham, some very good smoked pork and andouille. The spicing is a bit bolder than the jambalaya.
Roux Brothers also has an impressive beer list. Naturally there are a few Abita selections, brewed in Louisiana,along with many U.S. micro brews and some imports, most notably Belgianales. Prices are moderate, and Roux Brothers abounds in Cedarburgcharm, so sit back and relax. The cheerful servers will take care ofeverything else.
ROUX BROTHERS W61 N497 Washington Ave., Cedarburg (262) 377-8800 $$ Credit Cards: All major Smoking: Outdoors
Roux Brothers | Photo by Tate Bunker
