Durango Grill’s interior remains much the same, witha front barroom and a side dining room. Photographs and paintings of theSouthwest have replaced Capone’s mobster photographs. A skull of a Texas longhorn completesthe motif.
Andrew Jepsen, winner of many awards for hisbarbecue cooking, has created a menu that is geared toward casual diners whoenjoy the flavors of Texas.
First-time visitors would do well to order one ofthe sampler platters. The Amarillosampler ($14.95) easily serves two with a few ribs, chicken wings, two slidersand two side items. The barbecued meats have a distinctive, smoky flavor. Thechicken wings come with a delicious sauce that has plenty of heat and thelarge, meaty ribs arrive in a milder, sweeter sauceall of which makes for goodeating. The two sliders are of pulled pork and beef brisket. The pork comeswith a sweet and tangy sauce, so a dash of hot sauce does not hurt. The slicesof brisket are rich and smoky; not a lot of meat is needed. The larger San Antonio sampler ($19.95), recommended for four people,adds Texastorpedoes to the mix. The torpedoes are whole pickled jalapeños filled with Chihuahua cheese andwrapped with bacon. They also can be ordered on their own ($8.95) and includetortilla chips, pico de gallo, sour cream and wedges of lime. The torpedoeshave a lot of spicy kick, but pickled jalapeños and bacon make for oddbedfellows. The commercial tortilla chips are ordinary, but the pico de gallois good.
Besides barbecue, the other specialty that is takenvery seriously here is chili. The Texasred chili ($4.95-$9.95) is made the proper way, with no beans. It is verymeaty, soothingly spiced and topped with grated cheese. The Colorado con carne ($4.95-$8.95) replacesthe beef with slow-cooked pork in a green chile sauce. Be warned that even thesmaller serving is very filling. Although the Coloradois perfectly good, the Texasred wins this chili cook-off.
The remainder of the food menu consists of burgersand sandwiches, except for barbecue ribs that are served as a one-third rack($10.95) or a double portion ($16.95). The smaller version offers four ribs ina dark sauce that is not too sweet. The meat sticks to the bone (a goodthing!). In fact, these are some of the best ribs to be found locally.
The pulled pork and beef brisket are sold as a trioof sliders ($7.95) or as larger sandwiches ($7.95-$8.95). The beef is moredistinctive than the pork. The smoky blues ($8.95) is pulled pork topped with asweet, creamy coleslaw with bits of blue cheese. This is the way pulled porksandwiches are made in the Carolinas.
The burgers are biga full half-pound of ground beef.The Silverton burger ($10.95) is topped with sautéed onions, sweet red peppersand quite a few jalapeños. Lettuce, tomato and red onion come on the side. Eventhe bun is spicy, as it’s made with jalapeño cheddar cheese.
Sandwiches include one side item, while the ribs gettwo. Onion strings are thin and crisp in a light battera sound choice for aburger. The mac ’n’ cheese is actually penne pasta enlivened by Southwestseasoning, a perky cousin of chili powder. The seasoning is also found on thetasty fries. The ribs call for a side of cowboy beans, a blend of five beanswith bacon bits and onions seasoned Texas-style.
Specialty drinks make up the final items on themenu. The spiciest ones are made with habanero-infused tequila. The bar is adestination in itself, smaller and more intimate than the larger establishmentsnearby. Grab a seat, order some Durangowings and finish them off with an ice-cold beer. This is the place to enjoysome good barbecue.n
DurangoGrill
1007 N. Old World Third St.
(414) 312-7988
$$
Credit Cards: All Major
Smoking: After 10 p.m.
Handicap Access: Yes
