Jackson Grill's Menu Stands Tall

This is one of those “best-kept-secret” places you are glad to find. Located in a quiet residential neighborhood, Jackson Grill is a small place featuring a handful of tables in the dining room and near the bar. The setting is pleasantly retro. Jackson Grill, which has been open for about a decade, offers food that is reminiscent of a classic supper club. In more recent years, the place has also focused on steaks, including certified Angus and American Kobe.<br /><br />Jackson Grill offers two menus, one of which lists the daily specials. The specials are numerous for such a small place.<br /><br />The other menu highlights steaks, ribs, chops, seafood, pastas and risotto. Vegetarians have limited options.<br /><br />Among the appetizers are a Cajun barbecue shrimp cocktail ($16)a substantial serving of spicy shrimp with three different dipping saucesand escargot ($12) heated in garlic butter. The serving dish is topped with a whole portabella mushroom capan update for this classic appetizer. Enjoy the tasty snails with slices of sourdough bread.<br /><br />Entrees include a small starter of marinated olives and choice of soup or salad. Crab bisque has an intense seafood flavor as well as visible pieces of crab meat. The salad is a simple affair, with leaf lettuces and a bit of radicchio and red onion. The French cognac dressing is a very sound choice.<br /><br />Entrees include a side dish as well. The garlic mashed potatoes are the perfect side for red meat.<br /><br />Choosing a steak requires a bit of contemplation. Those on a tighter budget should be happy with the Jackson Grill saloon steak ($28), a 16-ounce piece of tender flat-iron steak. At the other extreme is the American Kobe filet mignon ($58). In the mid-range is a 24-ounce ribeye steak ($46) that arrives with a portabella mushroom on top and Gorgonzola butter on the side.<br /><br />The preparation of the steaks is key here. At most, a good piece of steak should be ordered “medium-rare,” arriving with a charred, nearly black surface and an interior that is pink and nearly rare. This is what Parisians consider “well done,” and it's a splendid way to cook a steak. The steak is nearly boneless, with just a small piece in the center.<br /><br />The seafood dishes are the ones most likely to change on a daily basis. Hope to find the seared sea scallops ($32), four very large scallops served over a risotto with shavings of Parmesan and fresh corn kernels. A side of sautéed zucchini shows that vegetables are treated with the same respect as the meats here.<br /><br />The Jackson Grill is proof that size is not everything. The interior may not be large, but the menu stands tall. Chef/owner Jimmy Jackson has been in the restaurant business for many years. His experience shows in the quality.<br /><br />Jackson Grill <p>3736 W. Mitchell St.</p> <p>(414) 384-7384</p> <p>$$$-$$$$</p> <p>thejacksongrill.com</p>