With 27years under its belt, Pasta Tree must be doing something right. Overthe years the restaurant has doubled in size. The current layout is animprovement over a dining area that for many years seemed crowded andcramped (some would call it “cozy and romantic”). Although the newarea, which contains a small bar and tables, offers more privacy, itprovides a little less comfort. The original part of thebuilding holds more character, with most tables having banquettes,Victorian-style sofas upholstered with floral brocade.
Manyof the diners appear to be regulars, people who don’t mind that thesmallish serving of lasagna is $18. Pasta Tree does offer a decentchoice of pastas, with at least 25 options. Appetizers include beefcarpaccio, ($13) a classic preparation of paper-thin slices of filetwith arugula, sliced mushrooms, olive oil and shavings of firm ParmesanReggiano. More interesting, however, is the arugula fennel salad ($9).Arugula dominates the taste in this offering that comes with shavedfennel and a dressing of truffle oil essence, topped by two thin slicesof crispy prosciutto. A bit more fennel could be added, but this stillmakes for a fine, if pricey, starter course.
Now comes thedifficult part: choosing a pasta. A solid pick would be shrimp pestolinguini ($20). The jumbo shrimp are shelled (minus the tail) andserved with a pesto that is a colorful green, thanks to fresh basil.Add halved Kalamata olives, artichoke hearts and sun-dried tomatoes andyou have a delightful entree filled with flavors of the Mediterranean.I’m usually left unsatisfied by tomato sauces spiked with vodka, butthe one at Pasta Tree is an exception. Judi’s vodka tomato sauce ($17),named after a customer, is your choice of pasta with Kalamata olivesand a creamy tomato sauce that adds character.
The portions ofpasta are more than adequate, but a side of grilled asparagus ($7) maybe in order. The stalks are seasoned with lemon vinaigrette, withadditions of roasted tomatoes and shaved Parmesana simple preparationin keeping with the pastas. Gnocchi ($9) are only sold on the side. Thepotato dumplings have a decadently rich Gorgonzola Alfredo sauce. Anorder of this with a starter course would work as a light meal, butthese delightful gnocchi deserve to be an entree.
There may bebetter Italian restaurants with more diverse menus, but the Pasta Treeoffers comfort and smooth service at a leisurely pace. And the fooddoes have its highlights, especially the crispy prosciutto and theGorgonzola cream sauce. Details like these make the prices worth it.
PasTa Tree 1503 N. Farwell Ave. (414) 276-8867 $$$ Credit Cards: MC, VS Smoke-Free
Pasta Tree | Photo by Tate Bunker
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