The kitchen may bethe same, but the interior has dramatically changed. The inside now includeshues of rich, burnished metal, with dark bar stools to match. The main leveland the balcony hold numerous tables, and there’s also a new outdoor deck.
Another majorchange is the addition of a counter near the kitchen. This is where lunchtimecustomers order pizza by the slice ($5) and also where you order custom-made salads($6). There are more than 30 ingredients to choose from: Assorted leafy greenscan be enhanced with spinach, arugula, artichoke hearts, prosciutto, mushroomsand a wide assortment of cheeses, among other items. The most interestingcheese is Bellavitano, an Italian cheese with a flavor like sharp cheddar.
These ingredientsalso double as possibilities for custom pizzas. The pizzas come in two sizes($10-$20) with mozzarella and a choice of three toppings. The crust is thin inthe middle and thick at the border, much like a Neapolitan pizza. With so manyingredients to choose from, the possibilities are endless. Some ingredients,like walnuts, pepitas and eggs, are clearly intended for salads. Arugula,however, is another matter. I remember finding a great slice of pizza in Rome topped with littlemore than shavings of Parmesan Reggiano and baby dandelion greens. Here thearugula is minced and mixed with the cheese. When baked, it has a nice flavorthat is more sprightly than fresh spinach. The prosciutto is so finely mincedthat it can barely be seen, but the flavor remains. The numerous cheeses offermany tantalizing options.
The menu remainsin an early stage of development, but there are a few choices beyond pizza andsalad. Sweet and Yukongold potato fries ($5), as thin as matchsticks, are perfectly prepared. But itseems pricey for such a small serving. Instead order a “lamburger” ($8). Thesucculent ground lamb is cooked to ordera perfect medium-rareand topped withpeppers, marinated onions and good Irish white cheddar. It includes plenty ofthose tasty friesa much better value.
One of thestarters, Jack Daniel’s braised fire-roasted ribs ($8), could double as a lightentrée. This starter includes five decent-sized ribs with a sauce that is moresweet than spicy. The ribs come with a Southern slaw of cabbage with sweet andhot peppers, as well as some carrots and red onions.
Tomato bisqueusually implies a creamy soup, but here the spicy tomato basil bisque ($5) ismore like a robust marinara sauce. It’s still good, but it’s rich and reallybelongs on a plate of pasta.
Crisp Pizza Bar& Lounge changes in character as the hours grow later. The focus is onpizza during lunch and the early evening hours, but later the bar and loungetend to dominate. For the most part, service has been fine. Ultimately thedécor is more dazzling than the food, but this is a place that allows you to beas creative as you wish. Design your own pizza or salad and enjoy. n
Crisp Pizza Bar& Lounge
1323 E. Brady St.
(414) 727-4217
$$
Credit Cards: AllMajor
Smoking: OutdoorDeck Only
Handicap Access:Yes
